First Dinner in Munich

I like to find one or two different places to eat when we travel. Tasting menus are a favorite of Bob and I because we get to taste a variety of food, most of which are things I would never begin to make myself. I looked at a number of places in Munich and we decided to go to a place called  Geisels Werneckhof for one of our dinners. It ended up, this was our first Munich dinner.

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I had read about this place, and the chef, in the NY Times. I loved the descriptions of the building and the food, so when I showed it to Bob as an option, he was all for it. We had a hard time getting reservations, but we were able to for Saturday night and I’m so glad we did. I was pretty proud of myself for trying my German (my very, very basic German) here and no one batted an eye. The wait staff even started discussing the menu with us in German until they realized that we were totally lost. The other English-speaking couple there did not have this experience, so I will assume the few things I can say sound decent.

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Every time we look at a tasting menu there are things on it that I just can’t eat. Fish and seafood seem to be a favorite of chefs to showcase their skill, so we always check to make sure the kitchen will substitute. In a lot of restaurants the whole table must do the same menu; Aliena was the first restaurant that didn’t do that. Daniel was the second and Geisels Werneckhof is now the third. That says something about the kitchen, the chef and the restaurant itself.

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The prettiest dish of the night was clearly the tartar. Yes, I ate raw meat. It was incredible. As good as this looks, it tasted better. I forgot to get a picture of my pea dish (Bob has some seafood plate that he loved) but I did get a picture of one of the desserts – various berries in different preparations.

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This really was a great way to start our trip. Most of our other plans were beer gardens and bakeries. We did manage a few beer gardens, but not the bakeries. But this …. this was an excellent way to start our trip and I am so glad that we did it.

Munich – Day One

We arrived in Munich just fine after the long trip. The S-Bahn is easy to navigate and our hotel is close to the main train station in Munich. But, like most hotels, rooms are not ready early so we dropped our bags and began to explore Munich.

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Thankfully Bob can read a map and navigate because my sense of direction is frequently off. We wandered down to the Marienplatz and got our bearings. We had just a few things that we wanted to do this first day – find the market, go up into St. Peter’s Church and maybe walk up to the English Garden. Of course we get to Germany at the start of a heatwave, but we go for it any way. The Viktualienmarkt is huge. There is every kind of vegetable, pastries, food and beer available. We wandered through (I was looking for a chocolate shop) but it was so crowded and hot that we didn’t stop anywhere. We might go back, but for this day, we decided just to look around.  From the market we went to the Marienplatz. Again, it was very crowded, but we were able to find something to snack on as we watched the people. We also saw the Glockenspiel.

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This is a pretty impressive cuckoo clock. It is huge and there are two separate “shows” that play at certain times. We missed the eleven am show and it was too early for the five.  After snacking so we would make it to dinner, we headed to St. Peter’s Church. I wanted to start here because I wanted to get an over view of Munich.

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The church itself is one of the oldest in Munich, originally built in the 1100s. It was almost destroyed in WW2, but it was rebuilt in the old style and is pretty impressive. We climbed the 306 steps to the top and took in the views of the city. I was prepared to be impressed by the views, but I think I was more impressed by the interior of the church.

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This church is just beautiful. It is a different beauty than the Cathedral at Sienna, but very impressive still. I also loved the real wax candles.  We decided, despite the heat (it was about 93 degrees) to walk up to the English Gardens. This is essentially a huge city park with lots of shade and various activities. There was a cricket match going on, children playing in the play grounds, lots of people resting under the trees, some swimmers and something we didn’t expect to see – surfers.

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Yes, in the middle of the river in Munich, Germany is a wave pool area for surfing. It was definitely a site. We also saw lots of teenagers floating or swimming down river, getting out near a tram stop and taking the tram back to where they could do it all again. We know they took the tram because that is what we used to head back to the hotel as we needed to rest and clean up before dinner. All in all. It was a great start to the trip.

Munich – Getting There

We had a difficult time figuring out where we wanted to go this year. The Pacific Northwest held a high place in this list, as did Arizona and Boston. With the Euro-dollar exchange rate what it is right now, we decided on Europe. After thinking Italy, Austria, Ireland or the Scandinavian countries, we settled on Munich. I researched, planned and triple checked flights and connections to make sure it would all go smoothly. Best laid plans as they say.

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Our flight out ended up delayed three hours – the amount of time I left between landing in Atlanta and taking off from Atlanta in case of a delay. The gate agents at a Delta were incredible. They tried booking us on a flight to a different city with a connection to Munich through Amsterdam. Couldn’t get on that flight. They tried an Atlanta flight that went through Amsterdam – no luck. We couldn’t make the connection to Paris, so back to the drawing board. We finally ended up with a flight to Frankfurt with a connection to Munich on Lufthansa. How they did this, I have no idea.

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We made (just) the Frankfurt flight. The flight itself was uneventful and we had an easy time getting into Frankfurt. Almost every airport I’ve been in has passport control as the first thing you do. You go through passport control before you have any access to any other portion of the airport. Not Frankfurt. Frankfurt we figured out which terminal and gate had our connecting flight, then went through the airport to that area. We went through security (think American TSA screening) with no ID and no ticket. You just go through and while it is easier than the U.S. Airports, they are way more thorough – the number of bags they had people open (including both Bob and I) to check specific items, was amazing. Yet still faster and easier than most U.S. airports.  We made our connection into Munich, made our way to the hotel via the train system and headed out for our first taste of Germany. We said we were going to have a few adventures in German, but I wasn’t counting on the trip to get here being a part of that.

Eggplant with Ricotta 

I started in the fridge the other day trying to figure out what to do with the three cute little eggplants I had from my last trip to the farmer’s market. I didn’t want to go to the grocery (trying to use up everything in the fridge) so I stared. When that didn’t yield too much inspiration I headed back to my cookbooks, cooking websites and apps. Eggplant lasagna and involtini both looked good, but these were little eggplants and my supply of stuff was limited. So, I improvised. 

I sliced the eggplants lengthwise, trimmed the skin off the end pieces, coated them with olive oil, sal and pepper and roasted them in the oven for about 20 minutes at 400 degrees. I let those cool and prepped the filling. 

I took a half a container of ricotta cheese (about 6 ounces from a 15 ounce container) and mixed it with one egg, salt, pepper and about one or two tablespoons of chopped, fresh oregano and about 1/3 cup of shredded mozzarella. Once the eggplant was cool enough to handle, I coated the bottom of a glass pan with tomato sauce. I put a tablespoon of the filling on each eggplant and folded the eggplant over. Once they were all filled, I topped each eggplant bundle with a tablespoon of sauce and grated some reggiano cheese. I baked this, covered, in a 350 degree oven for 20 minutes. 

The result was a really lovely little dinner. Bob liked it (no need to order pizza) and the only complaint from either of us was that we wanted more. So note for next time, have more eggplant. One large eggplant or more than three small ones. 

Recipe;

  • Eggplant:  small or one to two large
  • Ricotta cheese: 6-8 ounces (about 2/3 cup)
  • Mozzarella cheese: 1/3 cup
  • Oregano: 1-2 tablespoons, chopped
  • Tomato sauce: about 3/4 cup
  • Sal and pepper
  • Olive oil

* no pictures with this post because every time I try to upload one! WordPress crashes. I went ahead with the post so I wouldn’t forget what I did and could actually make this again. If they fix the problem, I’ll try to update with a picture or two.