Munich Day 3: Herenchimsse

For our second full day in Munich we headed out of the city to the island of Chimsse to visit the replica of Versailles that King Ludvig II began to build during his reign. He never finished the palace – either the building or the grounds – but what remains is fascinating.

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We took the train out to Prien am Chimsse which is a storybook kind of town. It is cute and I could have wandered the town for hours and been happy. But, alas, we took a just as cute train to the docks, then a boat over to the island.

Today was a little different on a few fronts. I let Bob take all of the pictures. I didn’t ask for the camera, I didn’t tell him what to take, and I didn’t supervise in any way (so out of character for me, I know). Second, we did a guided tour of the palace, in large part because that is the only way to see it. Thankfully they have tours in multiple languages, English being one.

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This place was opulent. I can’t think of a better word to describe it. In the finished rooms (there are 20 finished of the 70 planned rooms) every wall surface and ceiling is painted, decorated and gilded. Every piece of furniture is embellished. It was gorgeous, but too much. By the time we hit the unfinished entry, I was so glad to see plain brick walls.

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The island itself, and the views from it, are worth the trip alone. On the train rise to Prien a local gentlemen called it a piece of heaven in Bavaria. He was right. I would have loved to simply wander the island for a few hours, but I was worried about the train times, and Bob was a little under the weather, so we didn’t. Instead we headed back to Munich for dinner.

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We found another beer garden for dinner, this one close to our hotel and outside the main tourist area. Augustine is the oldest brewery in Munich according to their information. Started in 1328, they have been brewing beer for a long time.

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We were not expecting a large place, but this was huge. And it was exactly what you think of when you think about a beer garden. There were tons of people, lots of food, a band and beer. A lot of beer.

Given that Bob wasn’t feeling great and we had some plans for the morning, we made it an early night, did a very un-European thing and went back to the hotel to rest. Part if me wishes we had stayed and enjoyed the atmosphere, but most of me is really, really glad we left early.

Munich Day 2: Schloss Nymphenburg

When we look for places to travel, Bob and I have to figure out what we want to do, where we can afford to go, and how much energy we want to expend. Generally we get the what do we want to do question down then I plan the trip and Bob says ok or no before booking anything. This year, I let Bob pick the location so Munich, for better or worse, was his idea. He decided on Munich because it has castles/palaces, lots of history, some very neat churches and beer.

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Our first full day in Munich we decided to spend the day at Schloss Nymphenburg- the summer palace of the Bavarian monarchs. Getting there gave us some practice with the transit system, which we managed just fine. We did pick the hottest day of the year to tour the palace – an eighteenth century non air-conditioned palace. It was still worth it.

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The main reception room is incredible. It is so light, so airy and so bright that it is hard to believe it is only natural light.

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The other room that stands out is the room of beauties. One of the kings had portraits of beautiful women painted. He chose women from all walks of life, from the daughter of a farmer, a shopkeeper’s daughter to the daughter of a duke. He had a specific idea of what a beautiful woman looked like and he made sure to capture it.

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Outside the palace, the grounds were amazing.

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But more than just the grounds, tucked away, was a small chapel building that had one of the most unique rooms I have ever seen.

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Shells. The entire chapel area is created by shells. Everything is done in shells and the pictures really don’t do it justice. It was totally unexpected, totally different and absolutely breathtaking. Well worth seeing.

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For dinner, we went a more traditional route and headed to a beer garden. The Pauliner Nachenburger is a large, 3000 seat beer garden near the city center. It has both serviced and self serviced areas as well as playgrounds for children. We choose the served area and started out a little … unsettled as the few servers seemed to not want more tables. Eventually we got a server who insisted I try to say everything in German, and he corrected my pronunciation until I got it right. Part of me hated this, but part of me loved it. And really, if I can handle an encounter with Fritz, I can try anything.

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The food wasn’t fancy, but it was really well done. Bob liked his beer and I had both a great German wine and a prosecco with elderflower. I tried to be adventurous with my food and drink this trip and it paid off.

First Dinner in Munich

I like to find one or two different places to eat when we travel. Tasting menus are a favorite of Bob and I because we get to taste a variety of food, most of which are things I would never begin to make myself. I looked at a number of places in Munich and we decided to go to a place called  Geisels Werneckhof for one of our dinners. It ended up, this was our first Munich dinner.

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I had read about this place, and the chef, in the NY Times. I loved the descriptions of the building and the food, so when I showed it to Bob as an option, he was all for it. We had a hard time getting reservations, but we were able to for Saturday night and I’m so glad we did. I was pretty proud of myself for trying my German (my very, very basic German) here and no one batted an eye. The wait staff even started discussing the menu with us in German until they realized that we were totally lost. The other English-speaking couple there did not have this experience, so I will assume the few things I can say sound decent.

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Every time we look at a tasting menu there are things on it that I just can’t eat. Fish and seafood seem to be a favorite of chefs to showcase their skill, so we always check to make sure the kitchen will substitute. In a lot of restaurants the whole table must do the same menu; Aliena was the first restaurant that didn’t do that. Daniel was the second and Geisels Werneckhof is now the third. That says something about the kitchen, the chef and the restaurant itself.

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The prettiest dish of the night was clearly the tartar. Yes, I ate raw meat. It was incredible. As good as this looks, it tasted better. I forgot to get a picture of my pea dish (Bob has some seafood plate that he loved) but I did get a picture of one of the desserts – various berries in different preparations.

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This really was a great way to start our trip. Most of our other plans were beer gardens and bakeries. We did manage a few beer gardens, but not the bakeries. But this …. this was an excellent way to start our trip and I am so glad that we did it.

Munich – Day One

We arrived in Munich just fine after the long trip. The S-Bahn is easy to navigate and our hotel is close to the main train station in Munich. But, like most hotels, rooms are not ready early so we dropped our bags and began to explore Munich.

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Thankfully Bob can read a map and navigate because my sense of direction is frequently off. We wandered down to the Marienplatz and got our bearings. We had just a few things that we wanted to do this first day – find the market, go up into St. Peter’s Church and maybe walk up to the English Garden. Of course we get to Germany at the start of a heatwave, but we go for it any way. The Viktualienmarkt is huge. There is every kind of vegetable, pastries, food and beer available. We wandered through (I was looking for a chocolate shop) but it was so crowded and hot that we didn’t stop anywhere. We might go back, but for this day, we decided just to look around.  From the market we went to the Marienplatz. Again, it was very crowded, but we were able to find something to snack on as we watched the people. We also saw the Glockenspiel.

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This is a pretty impressive cuckoo clock. It is huge and there are two separate “shows” that play at certain times. We missed the eleven am show and it was too early for the five.  After snacking so we would make it to dinner, we headed to St. Peter’s Church. I wanted to start here because I wanted to get an over view of Munich.

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The church itself is one of the oldest in Munich, originally built in the 1100s. It was almost destroyed in WW2, but it was rebuilt in the old style and is pretty impressive. We climbed the 306 steps to the top and took in the views of the city. I was prepared to be impressed by the views, but I think I was more impressed by the interior of the church.

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This church is just beautiful. It is a different beauty than the Cathedral at Sienna, but very impressive still. I also loved the real wax candles.  We decided, despite the heat (it was about 93 degrees) to walk up to the English Gardens. This is essentially a huge city park with lots of shade and various activities. There was a cricket match going on, children playing in the play grounds, lots of people resting under the trees, some swimmers and something we didn’t expect to see – surfers.

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Yes, in the middle of the river in Munich, Germany is a wave pool area for surfing. It was definitely a site. We also saw lots of teenagers floating or swimming down river, getting out near a tram stop and taking the tram back to where they could do it all again. We know they took the tram because that is what we used to head back to the hotel as we needed to rest and clean up before dinner. All in all. It was a great start to the trip.

Munich – Getting There

We had a difficult time figuring out where we wanted to go this year. The Pacific Northwest held a high place in this list, as did Arizona and Boston. With the Euro-dollar exchange rate what it is right now, we decided on Europe. After thinking Italy, Austria, Ireland or the Scandinavian countries, we settled on Munich. I researched, planned and triple checked flights and connections to make sure it would all go smoothly. Best laid plans as they say.

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Our flight out ended up delayed three hours – the amount of time I left between landing in Atlanta and taking off from Atlanta in case of a delay. The gate agents at a Delta were incredible. They tried booking us on a flight to a different city with a connection to Munich through Amsterdam. Couldn’t get on that flight. They tried an Atlanta flight that went through Amsterdam – no luck. We couldn’t make the connection to Paris, so back to the drawing board. We finally ended up with a flight to Frankfurt with a connection to Munich on Lufthansa. How they did this, I have no idea.

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We made (just) the Frankfurt flight. The flight itself was uneventful and we had an easy time getting into Frankfurt. Almost every airport I’ve been in has passport control as the first thing you do. You go through passport control before you have any access to any other portion of the airport. Not Frankfurt. Frankfurt we figured out which terminal and gate had our connecting flight, then went through the airport to that area. We went through security (think American TSA screening) with no ID and no ticket. You just go through and while it is easier than the U.S. Airports, they are way more thorough – the number of bags they had people open (including both Bob and I) to check specific items, was amazing. Yet still faster and easier than most U.S. airports.  We made our connection into Munich, made our way to the hotel via the train system and headed out for our first taste of Germany. We said we were going to have a few adventures in German, but I wasn’t counting on the trip to get here being a part of that.

Eggplant with Ricotta 

I started in the fridge the other day trying to figure out what to do with the three cute little eggplants I had from my last trip to the farmer’s market. I didn’t want to go to the grocery (trying to use up everything in the fridge) so I stared. When that didn’t yield too much inspiration I headed back to my cookbooks, cooking websites and apps. Eggplant lasagna and involtini both looked good, but these were little eggplants and my supply of stuff was limited. So, I improvised. 

I sliced the eggplants lengthwise, trimmed the skin off the end pieces, coated them with olive oil, sal and pepper and roasted them in the oven for about 20 minutes at 400 degrees. I let those cool and prepped the filling. 

I took a half a container of ricotta cheese (about 6 ounces from a 15 ounce container) and mixed it with one egg, salt, pepper and about one or two tablespoons of chopped, fresh oregano and about 1/3 cup of shredded mozzarella. Once the eggplant was cool enough to handle, I coated the bottom of a glass pan with tomato sauce. I put a tablespoon of the filling on each eggplant and folded the eggplant over. Once they were all filled, I topped each eggplant bundle with a tablespoon of sauce and grated some reggiano cheese. I baked this, covered, in a 350 degree oven for 20 minutes. 

The result was a really lovely little dinner. Bob liked it (no need to order pizza) and the only complaint from either of us was that we wanted more. So note for next time, have more eggplant. One large eggplant or more than three small ones. 

Recipe;

  • Eggplant:  small or one to two large
  • Ricotta cheese: 6-8 ounces (about 2/3 cup)
  • Mozzarella cheese: 1/3 cup
  • Oregano: 1-2 tablespoons, chopped
  • Tomato sauce: about 3/4 cup
  • Sal and pepper
  • Olive oil

* no pictures with this post because every time I try to upload one! WordPress crashes. I went ahead with the post so I wouldn’t forget what I did and could actually make this again. If they fix the problem, I’ll try to update with a picture or two. 

    Summer Risotto 

    My love of really good food stems from a few places, but summer foods are definitely a big part of it. Growing up in Jersey there was nothing better than picking a fresh tomato and just eating it. Corn was sweet and bursting with flavor when you got it at the road side stands that dotted the drive to anywhere. Tomatoes and corn are so tied to summer in my mind that when I came across a recipe for risotto with both, I knew I had to try it.  

    The tomatoes and corn were from the farmer’s market last week. I may have killed some of the tomato flavor by putting them in the fridge, but I knew they would be grated and I wanted to make sure they lasted. I did make a minor change to the risotto recipe – rather than using a dry white wine and sugar, I used a semi sweet rose that we had open. It worked well.  

     I also figured that the color would not matter since the tomatoes get added early so the rice takes on a pink color from those. I also salted more than just at the end; I am a firm believer in seasoning several times during the cooking process. I will also say, this particular recipe makes a lot of risotto – enough that we will be eating it for lunch most of this week.  

      For herbs I used a mix of basil and chives. I really wanted to use more basil as it goes so well with tomato, but I just didn’t have enough in the garden. So chives and basil mixed in at the end gave this just an added flavor and kept it light. So the NY Times cooking app is successful once again. 

    Mideast Chickpea-Quinoa Salad

    I think I have a problem; I may be addicted to my NY Times cooking app. Seriously, there is a cake in the oven right now and the recipe is from the app.  

     This makes the third recipe this week from the app.  Or is it the fourth? Hmm. Can’t remember. But since these recipes keep coming out well, I will keep adding things to my “saved” file and make them as I have time. 

    Last night’s dinner was another “food my food eats” meal. Bob doesn’t actually complain about these (and after actually going to the meat section so I could make chili this weekend, I am sooooo glad – it’s gotten expensive to be an omnivore) but he does comment around the eighth meal in a row with no meat.  

     So this recipe calls for sumac, a Mideastern spice that my grocery store doesn’t carry. I thought about going to one of the spice shops in town, but then I remembered that I have Zahtar. Zahtar is a blend of sumac, sesame seeds, thyme and sea salt. I was pretty sure this would work with the chickpeas and quinoa and it did. The salad is fairly simple – chickpeas, quinoa, celery, tomato, onion and herbs. The herbs in this case were chives, mint and dill. I always forget how much I like dill until I use it in a recipe. We use to grow a ton growing up, so it is a flavor I associate with cucumber salads and summer. But anyway …  

     I got everything chopped and mixed together as the quinoa cooked. (The chickpeas I cooked a few days ago and froze in portions so I just took them out the night before to defrost.)  As the quinoa cooked I made the dressing. I going to highlight the sherry vinegar here as I think it sometimes gets a bad wrap or forgotten. It’s a good vinegar – light but still with a lot of character and flavor – and it really does add something to dishes. In this dish a balsamic vinegar would be too heavy and a red wine vinegar would be too tart; apple cider vinegar may work, but I think the sherry really does hit the right note.  

     I got everything mixed together and let it sit in the fridge for a few hours until dinner. I was particularly happy with this for a few reasons. It is light and refreshing. The mint, not a flavor I use frequently, added a freshness. The quinoa added a nuttiness while the chickpeas provided a lot of substance. Yes, this is a salad, but it’s filling and I wasn’t hungry a few hours later. The celery and onion gave a nice texture and crunch to this. So this is something I will make again. I can see making a batch on the weekend and having lunch for a few days during the school year.  

     

    Vegetarian Empada

    One great joy of summer vacation is that I get to work through my back log of saved recipes from the school year. I tried a great salad the other day that combined about three different recipes and was just about perfect. (Will post later) Last night I tried another NY Times recipe  – this time for a vegetarian empada 

    This starts out with a simple red onion and garlic dice. I fully admit to using way more garlic than the recipe calls for (I used three cloves) but this was the right call. These little dears may have a puffed pastry shell, but they are filled with veggies – eggplant, zuccchini, tomato, squash.  

     Getting everything cooked together isn’t hard – it does take time, but once its all chopped up, its pretty easy. To save time I chopped the squashes and eggplant while the onions and garlic cooked then chopped the tomato and herbs while the squash cooked.  

     The biggest pain portion of making these was the dough. Yes, I used store bought puffed pastry, but cutting, rolling and closing these is not the easiest thing in the world. I am pretty bad at making food look perfect (or even really good sometimes) but I didn’t do too bad on these. The original recipe called for making six, but I didn’t have a six cup  muffin pan – I have twelve. So I cut a little extra dough, made each a little smaller and thinner, and made nine  little empadas.

      Because I made these smaller than the recipe calls for, I reduced the cooking time to about 20 minutes.  I could have gone a little less I think, but I wanted to make sure the filling was hot since I made them ahead of time and kept them in the fridge until it was time to cook them.  

     Not bad, right? They look like little muffins  and I even managed to remove them from the pan without breaking any.  

     The verdict? Good. Very good. A make again good, but I may need to change the recipe just a little more. As much as I hate to admit it (because I really like this no meat cooking thing) I think I may use beef broth  to mix with the flour next time. Bob thought they needed a little something and I do agree. If I liked mushrooms, those could work too, but I wanted something with a deeper flavor to truly love these.   So overall a good  experiment and fairly successful.  

     

    NYC

    I have probably mentioned the difficulty of buying anything for Bob since if there is a gadget he wants, he just gets it. Early in our relationship, I just planned a trip for us and that was his present. It worked in a lot of cases because we were a thousand miles apart so a trip to DC or NYC or such was the perfect solution. I’ve pretty much decided this was one of my better ideas (as Bob doesn’t book the trips himself) and so we are going back to this Idea for presents.  

     When we decided to go to NY, we searched for restaurants where we could have an exceptional meal. This is not hard to do in New York. The trick was finding a great restaurant that we could get a table at on a Friday night that we both want to go to. We looked at a few options and Bob booked a table at Daniel in the lounge. The lounge is a small, dark wood paneled room off the bar area. Same menu, same quality service as the main dining room, but slightly less intimidating. And intimidating is the right word. Grand is the best way to describe Daniel and it was more formal than Alinea so I wasn’t comfortable taking out my camera to take pictures. So, sorry, no food pictures today. But it was exceptional. The food, the wine, the service was absolutely perfect. 

     Saturday we met up with Ed and Erin and saw An Act of God. This show is based on God’s tweets. (Yes, apparently even God is on Twitter.) I heard about this in an interview with a comedy writer who started the Twitter account a number of years ago, then turned the tweets into a book and finally a play. It sounded hysterical and when I heard Jim Parsons was going to play a God … well … I texted Erin to see if she would want to go, and booked the trip. I was so glad we went. It was funny and irreverent – to both the left and the right – and hit all the right notes. Realistically, it is God talking so there is a leg up on knowing the audience. I will say this – if you are in or near NYC this summer and want to spend an hour and a half laughing, go. Go see An Act of God. 

    After the play we headed to Babbo for another fantastic meal. We were able to find vegetarian options for Erin and I, and the boys were able to have meat dishes – all of which were fantastic. The sommelier even helped us pick a bottle of wine that we all loved – not an easy task given our varying tastes. But he did, and we greatly appreciated it as it made the end of our trip as enjoyable as the beginning.